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The Big Slide on the Lytton-Lillooet Road, photo: E. Cleven, 1940s
Photo: E. "Andy" Cleven

The Big Slide

BC Archives # C-09842, Big Slide on Lillooet-Lytton Road, Sept 1947, ph. R.H. Morgan BC Archives # C-09842  Photo: R.H. Morgan 09/47

BC Archives # I-57555, Big Slide on Lytton-Lillooet Road - 1909, ph. Frank Swannell
BC Archives # I-57555
BC Archives # NA-03634, The Big Slide Lillooet-Lytton Road, 1913
BC Archives # NA-03634
Big Slide on Lytton-Lillooet Road, 1947, photo Frank Swannell
BC Archives # I-57873
Oh, it's hard to begin this page.  Why a whole page for one geological anomaly of near-purely local interest?  Well, I guess it's because there's lots of pictures available of it. One reason, though, part is that those pictures haven't changed much in the last 100-odd years, other than the quality of the (still shifting) road surface.  This is because the geology in question is unforgiving and the engineering problem it poses remains pretty much the same - the mountainside it crosses is "rotten rock" from the top of the ridge right to the river.  The diffference nowadays is that there's a bit of pavement on the bit of road that straggles acrossit; the Slide has to be repaved every so often because of all the falling-rock damage, and sometimes a complete wipeout, but really it hasn't changed much from the days when it was a rough and unsteady track carved across a scree as can be seen in a few of these pictures.  I think this is one of the only provincial highways (No. 12) with an active rock-slide zone across it, or rather built across an active slide; I stand ready to be corrected on that, though.  There are slide chutes on other highways (including Hwy 99, especially on the Duffy Lake-Cayoosh Canyon segment) but nothing so active as the Big Slide.  Situated on the southern end of Fountain Ridge, the Big Slide is so active that rockfall is near-constant and the road-surface has to be checked and maintained on a weekly, sometimes daily basis.  In the old days, the Lytton-Lillooet Road didn't even try to cross it, but went instead via the Fountain Valley, in behind the ridge the slide falls down off of, and up to Fountain (Xaxl'ip) and back down the Fraser to Lillooet from there.  Although there's been a road across the slide since the 19th Century, most traffic went around via Fountain because of the dangers of crossing the Slide.....all 50 meters of it......It's still a bit of a death-defying passage, but a glance at some of the older pictures here gives an idea of exactly how much it's been improved.  Not fixed, but at least improved.

One of the classic stories I heard about the Big Slide (over and over, from my Dad)  concerns some locals who stopped for a pee back in the '50s in the middle of the Slide.  Talk about a death wish.  Anyway, while they were heeding nature's call there was a loud "crunch".  A boulder several times the size of their vehicle had crushed it; thankfully everyone was "enjoying the scenery" at the time......

Road hazards in the Lillooet region can still be extreme.  In some specific spots, going off the road means that you might not be found for days, perhaps weeks or years, because of the deep gorges on some corners, or simply of the power of the river far below which would sweep you away if you went in.  When I was living in Lillooet in the '70s a vehicle went off into the Gibbs Creek Canyon near 12 Mile (below the Fountain BCR tunnel); one survivor managed to climb up to then-Hwy 12 (now Hwy 99), taking 3 days to do so; the vehicle was several hundred feet or more below in a narrow canyon, invisible from the highway, and is still there to this day......

Maybe because he was an engineer, my Dad had a particular fascination for the Slide and I seem to have lots of memories of my Mom bugging him about not stopping on it for any reason, but more often than not he'd stop and take some pictures, a few more of which follow below.....
BC Archives # B-01920, The Rock Cut between Lytton and Lillooet - 1920s
BC Archives # B-01920
BC Archives # I-57556, Big Slide on Lytton-Lillooet Road - 1909, ph. Frank Swannell
BC Archives # I-57556
BC Archives # I-57557, The Rock Cut between Lytton and Lillooet - 1909, ph. Frank Swannell
BC Archives # I-57557
The Big Slide on the Lytton-Lillooet Road, 1940s
Photo: E. "Andy" Cleven
The Big Slide on the Lytton-Lillooet Road, 1940s
Photo: E. "Andy" Cleven

The Big Slide is important historically as well as geotechnically, however.  On the one hand, it is one of the obstacles that kept Lillooet physically isolated after its early gold rush heyday.  But more significantly still, it was the slide which backed up the Fraser into a huge lake a few thousand years ago, backing waters up beyond Pavilion and thereby enabling the development of the Keithley Creek pithouse culture so famously studied by Brian Hayden of SFU (see bibliography).
The Big Slide on the Lytton-Lillooet Road, 1940s
Photo: E. "Andy" Cleven